Once power was restored to this Macbook by replacing 2 resistors on PPBUS_G3H which is the power rail responsible for all others, though it would charge the battery, it would not run from it.
We replaced the Mosfets and battery power was restored. Next the back light circuit which is needed to power the screen’s brightness so that the image may be seen.
On removing the back light driver IC the 50 volt pad was toast, so we had to run a new trace and lay a new pad to restore the 50 volts.All done and held in place & insulated where exposed by the green conformal coating.
Macbook back up and running at a fraction of the cost of Apple who deemed this unfixable.
Widley documented as ‘flexgate’ where Apple were sued in court over a known defect affecting ALL 2016 & 2017 13″ & 15″ Macbook pro’s. Apple did issue a free repair program, but only for the 2016 13″ model which is valid upto 4 years from date of purchase of the Mac. So up until now the only fix has been to replace the entire screen at great cost, only knowing it will suffer the same issue. The flex has been made too short and upon opening the Mac’s lid it puts pressure on the flex which will fail after a short amount of time.
We had been modifying the antenna strip on fitting new screens, cutting away a small bit of plastic relieving the pressure, thus eliminating the problem. Here we have actually repaired the flex, thus saving the huge cost of repacing the screen with a new one. We obtained some new back light flex cables, cut the existing failed flex at the fail point, and splice in a new one with an extra 5 mm of play thus eliminating the problem. In the 4th photo this can be observed
Left in the red circle is the camera flex – Exactly the same design & length as the back light flex circled in red on the right. You can see post work the slack it now has, so it can never break again from being pulled on when opening the lid. A 100% forever fix for this ridiculous issue.
Macbook Pro 2015 A1502 No image to screen, non booting.
Although there was power to the Mac, testing with an external monitor showed the flashing folder upon starting up meaning no internal drive seen / no OS seen.
Inspection of the SSD showed minor corrosion, but enough to cause trouble. This cleaned off nice causing the drive to work without further issue. No image, 1st thing looked at was the LDVS connector which showed what the issue is, clearly something wet has gone in there to cause that damage, along with some messed up bits and peices PP5VR3V3 is what is produced here, without that, no picture. Cleaned up okay, replaced a few dodgy capacitors and a resistor, and we have a picture again.
No new screen or new logic board needed as quoted by the usual suspects, fixed at a fraction of the price. Good for your pocket and the environment. Got a dead Mac somewhere ? Get in touch, it’ll probably cost a lot less then you’ve been previously quoted, or that you think.
A few capacitors got replaced. On testing this when it came in using a USB-C multimeter it was pulling just 5 volts and 0.1 amp and cycling on – off. No 5 v then 9v then 19v. the speed at which it would go off again was much quicker than what we’d expect if it was a charge area problem, so we have a short circuit somewhere.
The battery liquid sensor had got full red, so looking in that area next to the battery connector, the track pad connector was toast, as seen in the photos. Except, this isn’t just a track pad connector, it also carries USB at 5 volts , keyboard and a sensor return that is in the track pad itself. Without this working, apart from the obvious – No keyboard and track pad, the Mac will boot extremely slowly with the fans running full pelt. This is because it’s not getting any return from the sensor on the flex cable, so the Mac thinks it has an overheat problem and goes in to ‘limp home’ mode to protect itself ( Probably looking at 5 minutes to boot ).
First having removed the nuked connector revealed the short, and what a short. We dug the short out and once testing proved the short was gone, a layer of conformal coating applied to seal in where the short had been and to prevent further shorting when the new connector is placed on to it. New connector soldered on, and as 8 pins now have nothing to be connected to, by using the brilliant board view software it allows us to see where we can take the missing power from an alternate source which we did by running jumper wires. We finish of by sealing any bare wires with conformal coating again. After final testing for no short to grounds or anything – The Mac was put back together and voila. Everything as it ought to be at a fraction of the cost of Apple.
This guy had the full Monty. Soaked through, what was wrong with it ? easier to say the only working part in the end was the screen . Due to this being a very expensive machine, it was worth the work. But I kid you not, every area had multiple issues, I’m not even going to post any before / afters as there would be hundreds. Everything needed sorting out, all power and charge lines, sensing circuits, screen connector, battery, SSD – Everything – Esentially 95% of the logic board needed sorting out. Have montaged the worst into 1 big picture, you’ll get the idea. but as every, had this up and running 100% as ought be at a fration of the cost of Apple. Shop local, you’ll get a nice surprise
Macbook Pro 2015 13″ sent into us dead. Another nice straight forward one. On testing the power rails, everything was there, just a huge short somewhere pulling it down preventing it turning on. Inspecting the logic board it was spotted almost right away. A big glob of something sticky and mess accross the keyboard back light connector.
Having removed the foul connector and cleared this area up the short was eliminated, and the Mac now booting just fine albeit no keyboard back light. Although it’s easy enough to put in a replacement back light ( that flex conector is toast! )
Dead 15″ 2015 Macbook pro killed by a large water spill. This thing was sopping wet when it arrived. After quite some cleaning to remove the corrosion many bad ( oxidised ) capacitors and resistors needed replacing, some power was restored.
Looking closer at the ISL chip which controls power and charge, the smallest bit of corrosion was found along with goo beneath the chip ( circled in blue) , so flipped and replaced it. Cleared out further bits of corrosion in connectors, popped into the ultrasonic bath to remove any non visible water and corrosion benath chips etc.