Water spill over Macbook Air A1466. As soon as the spill occured, the customer did all the right things. Turned it off right away and unplug it. Leave the lid open , turn the mac upside down and rest it keyboard down on a tea towel. Remove the back (pentalobe driver required ) and disconnect the battery. In this case customer carefully dried it out and cleaned what corrosion had started. Carefully dried it, waited 24 hours and turned it on to find working fine but keyboard doing crazy things. Apple quoted just over £400 with VAT ontop of that to replace the entire topcase – thats the casing, the keyboard, battery, track pad, keyboard backlight, keyboard, DC power in board, to name but a few when its simply the keyboard at fault here. So, we stripped the top case down to the chassis and removed the iffy keyboard and the gazillion tiny screws holding it in (corrosion on cable connector and bad stickey keys and a shorting caps lock !) . Put in the new, screwed back in a gazillion teeny tiny screws, fitted the back light, stuck the battery back in, and put the logic boards etc back into place. Fired up and used keyboardchecker.com to test all keys. All as it should be at a fraction of the cost by Apple to you and the environment. 🙌✊
A1398 Macbook Pro black screen – No image. Many mistake this as graphic card/chip failure, which it’s not! Some idiot will then reflow the graphics chip, which it didn’t need but in doing so it heats the voltage core chip enough , and just enough to reflow the solder on it back into full contact. This only lasts a few months. What we have done here is to resolder the vcore chip with nice new clean solder, we then reflow the circuit area around the vcore to ensure everything is in its place and won’t fail. Note the before picture the grey ball like solder blobs around the vcore chip, then after – whilst it was being reflowed, even through the flux its clear how much brighter the soldering is around the chip. And voila – We have a picture 💪✊🙌
Macbook Air A1466 Dead, no power no image no charge light. Apple had quoted customer for an entire logic board replacement at stupid £££. As we know, Apple NEVER repair anything, just swap out the entire inside at great cost to YOU and the environment ! Where here we fix it. These two corroded areas were responsible, corrosion removed, 2 capacitors replaced with one needing to be re-routed as the pads they are soldered to were toast ( the red areas ) – This area is responsible for allowing the Mac to power up. Secondly SPI MUX needed the track from resistor to MUX replacing at was burnt out also. This was achieved by running a small wire in its place, then coating it in conformal paint to insulate it. And there we have it, Macbook Air back to the client at a 1/4 of Apple’s quote. 💪✊🙌
Here’s a litle video we made on why you should upgrade that old Hard Drive in your Mac to Solid State Dive technology. It’s the best bang for buck performance upgrade possible for your Mac. The iMac in this video is a 21.5 2012 slimline A1418. Boot up time before, and after the upgrade. Bootup time has been considerably cut in the before part of the video, can’t have 2 minutes of almost nothing! 😂
Ahh, it’s graphics (GPU) failure! reflow the graphics chip and all will be well they say…. No. No no no NO! This is not the issue, though reflowing the GPU will sometimes TEMPORARILY fix the issue. Why ? It’s not the GPU at fault here, and never has been on these otherwise great machines. It’s the fault of a bad capacitor in the circuitry leading to the GPU. Reflowing the GPU will also heat this capacitor which will temporarily get it working again. As this capacitor (C9560) fails the mac will experience Kernel panics and eventualy a short to ground and thus no screen image!
To replace the capacitor with a new one the same is pointless as thtat will blow in time too. Why ? Its values are too low for the power required and it’s made of the wrong materials for the tolerance required. So we replace it with a 330uf capacitor, which in itself is a larger chip. We have to scrape away at the pad enlarging the pad in order to solder it on to work correctly.
Liquid damage repair - 2016 Macbook Pro 13" A1706 mug of tea knocked over it
2016 Macbook Pro 13″ A1706 mug of tea knocked over next to it spilling across the keyboard resulting in sudden death. Testing revealed No power, no charge, no green light, no screen. no keyboard. Nothing. After putting the logic board through the cleaner to remove corrosion and debris, still nothing. Suspect U7100 which is responsible for pretty much everything including main power rail G3Hot and charge sense, along with a whole bunch of other things that you’re not really interested in, are you?
Having replaced U7100 and a few burned caps, we have power, we have post, we have a booting machine . Still no charge, closer inspection the battery and one new battery later and we have charge sense. As seen in the photo’s First the Mac accepts 5v charge, if it’s happy and all is present it allows 9v , and again, if all is well and all is present, it boost’s to the full 20v to bring system power.
And we have no screen. I suspect that will be U8400 , the chip responsible for the LED backlight getting a boost from 12v to 50v. Now you don’t see it. Now you do ! U8400 replaced and we have a picture again, reseating and cleaning of keyboard connector and its back. Another restored to 100% working order at a fraction of what Apple charge to replace, and never repair.
Has your Macbook suffered liquid or water damage ? Has your macbook got a failed or problematic logicboard? Has Apple tried to tell you it’s your fault when you know it wasn’t ? We will fix your macbook at a fraction of the price of Apple. With our state of the art workshop we have all the tools ( and more ! ) to fix the actual problem(s) with your Mac for £195 to £400 – Rather than replace the entire logic board at a cost of £800 – £1200 by Apple. All work is done onsite. https://mycomputerworks.co.uk and https://mac-rehab.com 01403 586016
What did they do to you? What did they do to this poor little macbook ? This Macbook came into us in quite a sad state, stone dead. first thing to do is open it up and remove the logic board to inspect for damage. It didn’t take long with this mac.
With the logic board inspected, and as much dirt and corrosion cleaned off as is possible, time to remove further corrosion , and any liquid left behind under chips etc with the amazing Powersonic P1200D Ultrasonic cleaner.
Now that the Macbook’s logic board has been dried correctly, it looks brand new again !
looking at the schematics for this particular Macbook Pro, looking at where the problem areas are likley to be.
Would you buy a car where you were not allowed to change the tyres yourself?
Or would you buy a bike where you are not allowed to put the chain back on yourself ? #Apple are trying to make it impossible for you and independant repair outfits like us to #repair your own devices. This isn’t good for the consumers who have purchased Macbook Pro’s and Air’s which are models 2015 until present. Why ? They all have inherant design flaws, from Macbook screen cables that fail after you’ve opened / closed the Mac 50-60 times. Or the bad chips being used in 2017 onward models that will fail in a short space of time. according to Apple, that’s YOUR fault as you are using it wrong ! They will charge you the cost of replacing the entire logic board, or screen from between £800 -£1200 , where repair shops like us will repair the baord by replacing the bad chip, or whatever has failed, all at a fraction of the cost of an Apple ‘ehem’ repair. Liquid damage ? No problem. Dead ‘fried’ mac ? No problem. get in touch with us today 01403 586016 http://mac-rehab.co.ukhttps://mycomputerworks.co.uk#righttorepair#mac#macbook#local
Before you throw out that old desktop or laptop, consider to upgrade its storage. Whether your computer uses a hard drive or an older solid-state drive (or SSD) it’s probably time to upgrade it. SSDs are getting faster every years and replacing the storage in your old computer with a new SSD won’t cost you too much, it won’t take that long to fit, and it will make a huge difference to the speed of your computing experience.
its name suggests, SSD is solid—unlike the traditional mechanical hard
disk drives (HDDs) fitted in most desktops and laptops since the dawn of
portable computing, which use a read/write head floating over a
magnetic platter, there are no moving parts.
Not only does that make SSDs more robust, and quieter, it also means read and write times are much quicker—depending on the solid state medium these drives can boot up to five times faster and copy files three to four times faster. With no mechanical movements to make or wait for, everything speeds up. And technology is always improving, so a SSD from today could be twice as fast as an SSD purchased even just four years ago.
SSDs do have some disadvantages, like a limited lifespan of
read/write cycles, but the most modern SSD technology is designed to
minimize the problems these disadvantages are going to cause to your
Considering the frequency with which your
computer operating system accesses the internal drive, the speed gains
can really add up, which means a sluggish and wheezy old machine can be
instantly given a fresh lease on life with a shiny new SSD. First
though, we’ll explain some of the technologies underpinning SSD.
Flash storage and SSDs
SSDs are most commonly built with flash, (also known as NAND storage), just like USB sticks and smartphones—though the type and configuration of the flash storage depends on the use case. So while a USB stick and an SSD might both qualify as flash memory, the SSD will typically use higher quality modules, with better performance, and have a more sophisticated setup to handle the demands of holding an entire OS.
A USB stick will give you more storage for your money, but it won’t run as fast or last as long as an SSD, though they’re both based on the same kind of technology. If you try booting an OS from a USB drive, you’ll see what we mean.
While flash-based SSDs are increasingly common in modern computers (they come fitted in every MacBook now, for example), they were for a long time much more expensive than the HDD equivalents. This doesn’t matter so much on a small memory card or USB stick, but when you’re talking about 512GB of storage, that difference gets a lot bigger.
Flash-SSDs remain the more expensive
option, but prices have now settled to the point where they’re not
completely beyond the budget of the average consumer looking for a new
laptop (or wanting to upgrade an old one). At the same time, SSD
longevity has improved, though they still can’t match HDDs for archival
SSD technologies and types
you’re buying an SSD you’ll come across several different types of SSD
and different types of formats and connections too. For example, if
you’re upgrading an older machine your best (and maybe only) option
might be the traditional SATA connection. This is the connection used by
traditional hard drives and most 2.5mm SSDs. SATA has been available
since at least 2003, so you need to make sure the drive, and cable
you’re using use the latest version of SATA, SATA III, if you want the
best speeds. It’s twice as fast as SATA II and four times as fast as
A more modern connection option is PCIe, which connects to a faster
part of the system and is designed to overcome some of the bottlenecks
you might get with SATA (where the SSD is too fast for the rest of the
computer to keep up). It’s more expensive, and won’t be compatible with
older hardware, but it offers better performance. You’ll also see NVMe
(Non-Volatile Memory Express) mentioned alongside or sometimes instead
of PCIe. It’s a is a protocol for implementing PCIe, and it just means
your SSD will communicate with your computer faster.
That’s the underlying technology, but there are also the types of the physical connectors and form factors: M.2 (which can be in both SATA and PCIe flavors) is the most common for mobile drives (though you’ll find it on nearly all desktop computer motherboards now too). You might also see the more obscure U.2 option. Desktops, meanwhile, have embraced M.2 lately, but older ones still largely stick with the traditional SATA connectors or the newer SATA Express..
You should also be aware of a new type of SSD storage called 3D XPoint. Developed by Intel and Micron, it offers even better performance than current SSDs that use NAND flash storage. Thanks to various optimizations—like splitting data up into smaller chunks—these 3D XPoint drives are currently the fastest SSD drives on the market, though for the time being at least they’re overkill for updating an aging laptop or desktop.
Upgrading a laptop or desktop
all the various acronyms and terms we’ve introduced so far, choosing an
SSD upgrade for your laptop or desktop is actually pretty
straightforward, because you’re going to be limited by your existing
system’s setup (if you’re buying an SSD for a new rig, that’s when the
buying process can get a lot more complicated). Identify the motherboard
inside your laptop or desktop, and you can then work out which SSDs
that are going to fit and run happily alongside them. Older laptops and
nearly all desktops will work with a 2.5mm SATA drive, while newer
laptops will probably use a M.2 SATA or NVMe drive. If you aren’t sure
whether your laptop supports NVMe you can check with the manufacturer or
just play it safe and go with SATA.
Most computers from the last few years will happily run with an SSD upgrade inside, though obviously the process is more fiddly on a laptop because of the lack of space. Your new SSD will need to be the same physical size and use the same connector as your current HDD, and a quick web search should reveal the right upgrade for your computer model (and maybe lead to you a few updates from people who’ve already tried it).
Of course though, we can save you the time and bother !
MyComputerWorks Horsham can upgrade your 2008 – 2012 Macbook Pro to an SSD including a transfer of all data from your older Hard Drive to the new Solid State Drive from just £99.99 – iMacs from just £119.95 all inclusive ! Windows Laptops and desktops from just £99 ! More here https://www.mycomputerworks.co.uk . Why don’t you see what our customers have had to say with their reviews? Find out more about upgrading your Mac in Horsham by using the contact form on the website, or by calling 01403 586016 or by sending an email to email@example.com.
In the past monthat MyComputerWorks we have seen two Apple Macbooks come in as ‘dead’. The cause ? They had not been serviced, and both had been left , one for several weeks, the other for months not in use. The result was where there was dust build up around the chips on the logic board, the dust accumulations had absorbed moisture. The 2016 Macbook we had in had suffered a failed back light fuse due to this. The resulting cost was just below £300. The late 2012 Macbook we saw had multiple short circuits on the logic board due exactly the same issue. The repair was just under £400 !Hence – Prevention really is so much better than cure, not to mention an awful lot cheaper! see image below. One can clearly see the dust build up accross the two top chips – The moistue in the dust completed the circuit when it was turned on. It fried immediatley, the resulting cost on this was a replacement logic board. Costly!
It is so important to get your MacBook serviced. Blocked fans are the killer – running hot is the major cause of failure. So get a service and prolong the life of your mac . book in your Mac with MyComputerWorks Horsham where service starts from just £25.